More Glacier Bay

Sorry for the long delay – we’ve been very busy having adventures, and I got behind on editing photos. We last left off in the less-visited eastern arm of the bay. We cruised up Muir Inlet all the way to the end, spotting lots of mountain goats on the cliffs. The Muir Glacier doesn’t quite reach the seawater any longer, but it’s fairly close.

We still found sea otters (and some with pups), even far up the arm. They’re forever in search of food, since they don’t have any real predators and their numbers are increasing. They’re really adorable, but they’re eating machines and that’s a problem for the ecosystem.

The next day we started our exploration of the western arm of the bay, checking out a few favorite spots looking for bears and mountain goats. We were having a nice lunch in Tidal Inlet and spotted this well-furred brown bear up on the cliff.

Emerging from Tidal Inlet, we slowly oozed north along Gloomy Knob – a mostly bare mountain that’s usually good for finding mountain goats. We weren’t disappointed!

It was interesting to see the goats still in their winter coats, and we were disappointed that we didn’t see any kids yet. Normally at this time of the year the goats are shedding and there are young ones around. With so much snow still on the mountains, we found goats at lower elevations, even some very close to the water’s edge.

And just while we were busy looking at goats and the occasional puffin or pelagic cormorant zipping by, several humpbacks popped up between the boat and the rocks.

Two humpbacks

We kept a sharp watch for wolves, but didn’t see any this trip. Last year we spotted 6 black wolves sunning themselves on a beach nearby.

After getting our fill of goats and puffins and whales we continued up the west arm to the glaciers. The Reid Glacier, where we anchor, was covered in fresh snow, and there was snow on the ground all the way down to the tide line. We cruised up by the Johns Hopkins Glacier, but couldn’t approach the face since it’s seal pupping season and the park closes that inlet for a couple of months to give the new seal pups some space. We were surprised to see so little ice in the water – it was easy to navigate around the glaciers, compared to past years.

The Lamplugh Glacier is the most blue of the ones in this area, and it’s most beautiful when the weather is gloomy so the surreal blue color really pops.

It was so odd to see all the fresh snow – it sure didn’t feel like Memorial Day weekend!

We headed up to see the Grand Pacific and the showy Margery Glaciers, again taking advantage of the lack of brash ice to get farther north and closer to the faces.

After hiking near the Reid Glacier and riding out some snotty katabatic winds (that blew over 40 knots for most of the afternoon and night), we turned south to the less icy parts of the bay. Anchoring in Fingers Bay we watched a brown bear foraging, mergansers and harlequin ducks feeding, and this black bear munching on barnacles.

I was able to watch him for quite a while, but once the bear noticed me in the kayak, I had to back away so he would resume feeding. Meanwhile a big flock of black-legged kittiwakes landed behind me…

Black-legged kittiwakes

…and a murrelet was diving for food and popped up close by.

The weather turned misty and rainy, and it was still pretty cold for early June… I didn’t envy Jim having to go out on the bow to retrieve the anchor every day.

I’ll wrap up the last bit of Glacier Bay in the next post – stay tuned, and I promise you’ll just have to wait a day or two.

Exploring Glacier Bay

We’re always glad to return to Glacier Bay – it never disappoints. We covered almost 200 nautical miles in the bay this trip,and as usual there’s more to show you than one post can handle.

We always start with a visit to the Ranger Station in Bartlett Cove to see what’s up, and we like to see how the Healing Pole is weathering. This pole tells the story of the struggles between the Hoonah Tlingit people and the Park Service, and how the two sides have worked towards a productive partnership. I’ve written much more about the Healing Pole and the history of the Tlingit in the bay in previous year’s posts.

After seeing the rangers, we always like to walk the nearby Forest Trail. Nothing beats the relaxed feeling that comes from a simple walk in the woods.

The next stop on our usual route is to head up-bay as soon as the tide is favorable, bound for South Marble Island to check out the puffins and other sea birds, and the noisy colony of sea lions.

Do you get the feeling that these tufted puffins might be married??

Common Murres

There weren’t as many pelagic cormorants around, but there were plenty of common murres, and kittiwakes nesting on the cliffs. The sea lions were raucous – big fat sausages grumbling when a neighbor disturbed their nap. Don’t make the 1-ton beachmaster angry!

A few humpbacks snorted in the distance, but we didn’t see any very close. Sea otters were plentiful, clutching their little mini-me pups. They’re adorable, but they eat everything in sight and they will eventually eat themselves out of a territory.

In the mid-bay we like to anchor in North Sandy Cove – a lovely spot with good protection. The tides were big while we were there, opening up some shallow areas to explore by kayak. We spotted both black and brown bears in the cove, and I followed a brown bear from the cove as it walked along the shore of two nearby coves, even ignoring some kayaks pulled up on shore in the south anchorage.

Luckily this bear seemed to be on a mission, but some rangers in another part of the park had trouble with a bored brownie taking too much interest in their kayaks and tents, tearing up a life jacket and a water bladder.

These quiet back coves are wonderful places to look for birds – whimbrel, harlequin ducks, wigeon, scaups and spotted sandpipers (aka “teeter tails”). They can be well camouflaged against the many-colored rocks on shore.

We had time to cruise up the less-visited eastern arm of the bay – Muir Inlet. It’s not as flashy-splashy as the popular west arm, but it’s beautiful in different ways. We spotted more bears and lots of mountain goats, though they were fairly high up on the cliffs – a bit far for a photograph. One interesting glacier up there is the McBride. The face has retreated behind a mountain, but it’s quite active and its melt-stream can be a roaring maelstrom with overfalls and lots of ice.

The photo doesn’t do justice to the crazy rushing ice-laden water flow – it sure was an exciting sight! Just a little farther up the inlet the Riggs Glacier was beautiful to see up close.

Riggs Glacier

Notice all the fresh snow on the glacier and the rocks – more about that in the next post. Remember that I’ve been complaining about spring being so late? It was even more evident up here in the bay! Stay tuned…

Party Like a Viking

Last year Petersburg had to cancel the annual Little Norway Festival for the first time in over 45 years, but this year people got creative and figured out how to do more things outside. Of course it was a bit rainy, but that didn’t dampen anyone’s spirits – it went well and we had some fun.

I’ve written about the Little Norway Festival before – it’s four days of celebrating Norwegian Constitution Day (May 17 – Syttende Mai). They only celebrate for one day over there… we like to over-achieve in our town. Traditional costumes – called Bunads – represent different regions of Norway and many people have their own, often hand-made.

The Style Show gives people a chance to learn more about the various bunad styles, and a little history of some of the families in town.

There was plenty of good food to sample, including the ever popular Kaffe Hus at the Sons of Norway hall (take-out only) – treats made with butter and love. My favorite is always the parade, and I shot a little video to show you some of the highlights. New this year was the Precision Grocery Cart Team from Hammer & Wikan, celebrating 100 years as our local grocery and hardware store.

As soon as the Festival wrapped up it was time to cast off the lines again and head out cruising for the summer. Bye Petersburg!

As always, the Steller’s sea lions were fighting for coveted spots on the buoys out in the Sound.

Oh, it was sooooo good to be anchored out, especially after a long first day’s run. We spotted a few orcas in the distance, but it was pretty quiet otherwise. The next morning was still and pretty, and I spotted a bear out on the flat – sublime and perfect.

We headed out the next day towards the east side of Baranof Island, and were amazed at how much snow was still on the mountains! It makes sense since spring is so late this year – almost by a month. In the steeper anchorages there was snow all the way down to the water.

We spent two nights at Warm Springs Bay on Baranof Island, enjoying some soaks in the natural hot tubs there, as well as some time for chores.

It’s such a gorgeous spot, but the noise from that roaring waterfall eventually gets to be a bit much.

We made the short cruise to another favorite spot – Takataz Bay not too far north of Warm Springs, and spotted several bears as we were setting the anchor! They were all too far away to photograph, but there was a sow and three older cubs, as well as another bear over on the tidal flats. I got the kayak in the water quickly, but the tide was too low and I couldn’t get near enough to them. I also saw some mink, deer, widgeons, and this nosy river otter.

We’re working our way up to Glacier Bay, so we weren’t dawdling too long in any one place, but Pavlov Harbor on Chichagof Island is another good spot to stop and usually has plenty of bears around. I paddled to and fro – checking all my usual spots and didn’t find anything except lots of sea stars…

…and a plucky raven looking for something to eat.

And finally… bears! A sow and two cubs wandered out of the forest and spent the whole rest of the afternoon munching sedge grasses and foraging on the beach. Nirvana!

The bears were wonderful to watch, but the weather was changing and we needed to get up around the corner and out of the wind before things got too frisky. We headed to Hoonah to hide for 2 nights, then back into Icy Strait, on our way to Glacier Bay. We only spotted one humpback, but it gave us a good show with some breaches, pectoral slaps and tail slaps!

Winter Green

It’s mid-May, and today the temperature never quite hit 50. Add some on-and-off rain all day and it was pretty raw and chilly to be outside, trying to enjoy the Little Norway Festival. Where is spring?? Will we have a summer? Last year it was cold and rainy all summer… and we don’t want a repeat of that!!

We had a 12 day stretch of glorious weather in mid-April – oh, we all thought Spring had well and truly sprung and we could start working on the boat. Job one was to scrub all the green from the outside of the boat that accumulated over the wet, soggy winter. It took three days of scrubbing to get ADVENTURES clean, and many of the boats in the harbor were starting to look pretty spiffy as well.

The promise of spring spurred a lot of action on the docks, with people loading up their toys to transport to their summer cabins.

Look at those blue skies!! With long days (15-16 hours of daylight) and sunshine the whole town launched into a frenzy of activity, unleashing all that pent-up energy from the long dark winter. In the end, I was sort-of glad to see the rain return just so we could rest a little.

In the meantime, we received the very happy news that we won permits in the state lottery for the McNeil River Bear Sanctuary near Homer, Alaska. Those permits are very hard to come by, and we won the first time we tried! We’ll join 8 other people for four days of up-close-and-personal time with brown bears. Really close. McNeil has the largest seasonal concentration of brown bears in the world.

The challenge of McNeil is that there’s nothing there except a little cook cabin and a couple of outhouses. We’ve borrowed a sturdy tent from friends, and we did some experimenting with freeze-dried food to keep things simple and lightweight. Note the expiration date. Actually, the food we tested was much better than we expected, so we ordered a variety of meals for dinners. We’re very weight-restricted for the float plane trip over to McNeil, so every little bit counts.

Jim checked out our old camping pads and some newer sleeping bags, and they should keep us warm enough in the exposed coastal delta at McNeil.

We’re pretty excited for the McNeil adventure, and I can promise that I will bore you with oodles of bear photos when the time comes.

Before we hang out with the bears, it’s time for a shakedown cruise to test the boat’s systems. We had two sets of friends hauling their boats out in the boatyard in Wrangell – the next island town about 40 miles from here. We decided to cruise down there to give them a hand with a few projects, and just to spend some time with them. The boatyard is a fascinating place, with a few pleasure boats and lots of fishing boats – big and small. Other Petersburg friends were there with their fishing tender – the MATILDA BAY – 180 tons of steel, seen below being picked up by the 300-ton travel lift. Yowza!

The propeller on MATILDA BAY weighs 850 lbs, and they had sent it down to Seattle to be re-worked. It was a happy day for her owner Sherry when it arrived on the barge, looking all shiny and new.

The excitement happened when the yard started to put the prop back on the boat, and as they maneuvered it into position the sling slipped off the forklift. 850 lbs. came crashing down, slicing owner Kurt’s sock and shoe, and shaving a little sliver of skin from his ankle. It could have easily sliced off his foot. The bad news is that one blade was bent, but he was able to heat the tip and bang it back to true. You have to pay attention in the yard!

It was a wet, cold week in the yard, but we got a lot accomplished and had fun spending time with our friends. Cinco de Mayo occurred on the only dry day of the week, so we postponed our party to the following evening. Knut made margaritas…

…and it didn’t take long for us to inhale good food and nod off on the sofa.

We completed our busy spring with a Field Day for Fish & Game’s basic gun safety program. We enjoy target shooting, and I’ve found that it has improved my telephoto photography. It was a cold day at the range, but our local State Trooper, Forest Service and Fish & Game folks put on a superb class.

So it has been a very busy “spring” and now we’re itching to get back out on the water for the summer… rain or no rain!