Catching up – Trip to Barrow

20150911 1165 fairbanks airport rBefore we were interrupted by the holidays, I was determined to get the Blog caught up on our September (yes – that really was nearly 4 months ago!) road trip to the Alaskan Interior.  Just to remind you that it was autumn back when we were up in Fairbanks, here’s a photo of the Fairbanks airport as we took off for our flight up to Barrow, 320 miles above the Arctic Circle.alaska map road trip overview 2North of the Brooks Range, the land is mostly flat tundra with roaming caribou and musk ox.20150911 1171 far north snowfield rAnd you can see that there isn’t much to protect the land from storms coming off the Chukchi Sea.20150911 1180 far north tundra rBarrow is the northernmost city in the US with a population of about 4200 people, most of whom are Inupiat native who must rely on subsistence hunting for a large percentage of their food.  Barrow is accessible ONLY by air (year round) or by water during a short period in the summer months.  The town has a fuel storage facility since they receive all their fuel for the entire year in one barge delivery each summer.  Can you imagine accurately estimating all the fuel needs for a town – for cars, ATVs, snowmachines, trucks, heavy equipment, generators and heating for a year?  The supply has to be carefully monitored and budgeted to make sure they don’t run out, and the cost at the pump is about $7/gallon.  Aside from subsistence hunting, all food must be brought in on the summer barge or by air, so you can imagine that it’s very expensive.  In addition to being practical, hunting is an integral part of the Inupiat culture – helping each other and sharing meat among the elders in the community.

The most important food source for the Inupiat is the bowhead whale.  They differ greatly from the Japanese whaling ships which take as many whales as they can.  The Inupiat’s two annual hunts (spring and fall) are regulated to limit the number of whales taken (the quota was 12 strikes for the late September fall hunt) to protect the Arctic Ocean population, and the hunt is conducted using many of the same traditional methods that the Inupiat have been using for thousands of years.  The spring hunt is done from the edge of the shore-bound ice, and the whaling teams camp out on the ice waiting for a bowhead to come close enough for the hand-thrown harpoon, or sometimes they may venture a short distance in a traditional skin boat (made from the hide of bearded seals).  The harpoon has a small incendiary device designed to detonate inside the whale’s head in order to dispatch the animal instantly and humanely.  Another native with a rifle stands by to fire an additional killing shot immediately afterwards, if necessary.  The Inupiat take great care to respect and honor the whale’s sacrifice, and scientists use the whale harvest to further study the bowhead.  Did you know that the whale’s eye can reveal its age?20150912 1231 barrow bowhead skulls rThe community helps with all the work getting the whale ashore and harvesting the meat.  Cooperation and teamwork are deeply rooted in their culture, and the many skills and lessons are taught to children at an early age.  After distribution among the community members and elders, the meat is stored in ice cellars – deep holes dug into the permafrost.

Top of the World Hotel

Top of the World Hotel

The Inupiat Cultural Center in Barrow is an excellent place to learn more about this group of polar native people, and we were lucky to have an Inupiat woman guide us through the museum and weave examples from her childhood and adult life into her interpretation.  We arranged for the tour through the Top of the World Hotel, one of the very few hotels in Barrow.  Notice that the hotel is built up on stilts to protect the permafrost.  Everything in Barrow is very very expensive, but it’s no surprise since it’s not easy to get things up here.

You can see by the photos that we had pretty gloomy weather for our weekend visit.  Barrow is overcast for more than 50% of the year, and sitting right on the shore of the Chukchi Sea and well above the Arctic Circle you can imagine that the weather there isn’t often very nice.  In fact, the town sits right up against the ocean beach which can be problematic.  When we were there in mid-September crews were still clearing sand washed over the road from a storm.20150912 1215 barrow beach and town rWe dressed in our warmest hats and tall insulated boots and had a ball beach combing in the surf, finding funky fat marine worms and many beautiful rocks in unusual colors.20150912 1203 barrow arctic ocean beachcombing jim r

Eider duck

Eider duck

Another reason to visit Barrow is to see snowy owls, which feed on the little lemmings that live on the tundra.  Barrow’s Inupiat name is “Ukpeagvik” which translates to “The Place Where We Hunt Snowy Owls”.  The weather and time of year weren’t the best for finding owls, but we did see some, as well as snow buntings, parasitic jaegers and eider ducks.

Snowy owl

Climate change and sea level rise are very real for these Arctic people.  The road is washed out more often by storms, and sea ice forms later in the year (and is thinner), making it more difficult for hunting as well as for the marine mammals that rely on the ice for habitat.  Two small cruise ships are making a stop in Barrow once a year now that the Northwest Passage is open on a more consistent basis.  Polar bears are a real danger on the outskirts of Barrow, and their behavior is changing as their habitat is impacted by the loss of sea ice.

The guidebook for Barrow cautions people about exploring along the beach outside of town, warning that polar bears are apex predators and that they will absolutely hunt humans.  We stuck with our local guide for this visit.

Barrow is a fascinating place, and we’d like to explore it further in the warmer months when there are more birds around.  The culture and living challenges for the native people are amazing, especially when you consider that they have thrived in this harsh environment for thousands of years.20150912 1187 barrow whale arch wide r

Winter Beauty

20151228 2354 n nordic lighted trees rWe’ve passed the Winter Solstice, so although the daylight is still quite short, it gets a little longer every day and that makes the chilly dark winter days easier to take.  There are still plenty of lights up around town to keep things cheery and bright, and many people set their lights to turn on in the dark mornings as well as evenings.  The Sons of Norway hall always looks good, reflected in the slough at high tide.20151228 2351 sons of norway holiday reflection 1 rWe’ve had a few stunning sunrises this past week (today was the best!), and it’s nice not to have to get up too early to see it.  We even had some pretty moonsets right around sunrise last week – so beautiful with the dawn light kissing the top of Bearclaw Mountain.20151228 2262 bearclaw mtn moonset r20151228 2290 winter wonderland jim rWe had a few good dumps of snow starting the day after Christmas, turning the National Forest into a true winter wonderland.  We headed Out The Road to explore the tidal rapids at Blind Slough and to see if we could spot any swans or other birds.  We saw lots of deer and mink tracks in the snow and some ducks flying in the distance, but no trumpeter swans that day.  We had snowshoes with us, but didn’t need them since the shoreline of the slough was covered by a frozen crust that made walking pretty easy, and much of the trail was sheltered by tall spruce and hemlock so the snow wasn’t very deep.

20151228 2304 blind slough winter r20151228 2298 winter sagging ice rIt was so quiet out there, with the sun quickly sinking below the edge of the mountains.  We often stopped to listen and savor the quiet, but as we were heading back to the trail we heard lots of snapping and popping – very strange!  We looked around and finally realized that it was the tide coming in, lifting the ice which had slumped and draped over rocks and grasses in the shallows.  We were glad we ventured out to explore, though we’ve ordered a set of studded snow tires for the car to make future exploration a little safer.  Everyone in town is hoping for more snow and a chance to make good use of cross country skis and snow shoes, and to enjoy the wintry landscape.20151228 2310 blind slough winter jim rThe winter birds are active in the harbor, with scoters, loons, goldeneye, teals, and the elegant long-tailed ducks.20151230 2446 long tailed ducks in flight 2 r20151230 2489 winter murrelet rWe’ve had a few blooms of krill in the water lately, bringing in even bigger populations of ducks and sea birds to the harbor.  Sometimes I sit on the dock under a camouflage poncho with my camera to watch and photograph the birds, and it’s worthwhile to see them up close.  There is so much beauty here – everywhere you look, and we’re grateful for the chance to enjoy it.

The New Year wouldn’t be complete without the annual Polar Plunge in the harbor.  The intrepid swimmers gathered on a chilly, overcast New Year’s morning with the ambulance and a safety swimmer standing by.  As the crowd counted down, the brave and the crazy took the leap!20160101 2502 polar plunge leaping r20160101 2508 polar plunge we did it rYou might notice that a few people chickened out at the last minute, but we had a great range of ages represented among those who took the plunge.20160101 2517 polar plunge brave people r…and a couple of people lingered in the 48 degree water to relish the moment.  Happy New Year!20160101 2534 polar plunge enjoying the water r

Christmas in Alaska’s Little Norway

I think Petersburg (aka “Little Norway”), known to be more Norwegian than Norway, is just about the perfect place to spend Christmas.  This community really knows how to do it right, from the high school and middle school holiday band concerts, to the dance recital (with 130 children ranging in age from 4 to 17), to the Community Concert, to Julebukking – it’s a festive and happy time.

The Community Concert is a lovely event, where anyone can volunteer to perform something holiday-ish.  The number of talented people around town is impressive enough, but then consider the generosity of those people willing to share their talents with the rest of us.  Jim volunteered to sing with the Oxford Carolers group, so he’s been busy with rehearsals all month, and they sang well at the Concert as well as a few other venues around town.20151221 2212 community concert oxford carolers 1 rJulebukking is probably the most fun part of the holidays, where local businesses and organizations revive their own version of the old Norwegian tradition and host open houses with generous spreads of food.  It started last Saturday with a couple of places, then picked up the pace with six or more businesses hosting each day on Wednesday and Thursday.  It’s a great way to visit with friends and to make new ones while standing around enjoying the treats.20151223 2228 julebukking airport rThe airport even gets into the act, with a nice table full of smoked fish, meats and cheeses, and cookies as well as discount coupons from Alaska Airlines.  In the old days, the passengers on the planes would come inside to enjoy some Julebukking, but with stricter security the gate staff just brings some plates of treats out to the pilots and crew.  Our radio station (KFSK – Fish Head Radio) had baked potatoes, a fabulous cranberry tart, and cookies decorated by children.  Each business puts its own spin on the festivities, but I would say that the Rexall Drug Store’s pastrami sandwiches (well worth waiting in a long line for) and the spread at the hardware store are the best.20151224 2234 julebukking hardware store rThe highlight is the hardware store’s “Moose Milk” – a delicious concoction that is as much fun to watch them make as it is to drink.  Start with a 5 gallon paint bucket and a smiling man pouring White Christmas liqueur into it.20151224 2235 julebukking moose milk process rAdd 6 half-gallons of vanilla ice cream, softened…20151224 2236 julebukking moose milk ice cream rPut the top on the bucket tightly, and stick it into the paint shaker for a little while….20151224 2239 julebukking paint shaker r…and voila – you have Moose Milk!20151224 2238 julebukking moose milk rNorwegian sweaters are often the garment of choice for Julebukking, though some people celebrate the holidays with their own distinctive style.  I don’t know if these two guys are related, but they sure looked great!20151224 2241 julebukking suit 1 r20151223 2231 julebukking suit 2 rIf you want to know more about Julebukking, you might find the description on Wikipedia informative, and it even mentions Petersburg as one of the places that celebrates the tradition.

After trying not to stuff our faces TOO much for days on end, we got into the proper Christmas spirit with a walk up to the Lutheran Church for the 10pm service on Christmas Eve.  The moon was full, the skies were clear and full of stars, and the big dipper and Polaris were easy to see – a reminder of Alaska’s state flag.  The temperature was in the low 20s, but the warmth of the congregation more than made up for it.  There’s enough snow remaining on the ground to count as a “white Christmas”, though we’re likely to get some fresh snow later on tonight and into tomorrow.

This morning we woke up to a pretty day, and as the sun crested the mountains to the east, it cast a golden glow on the crest of Petersburg and Bearclaw Mountains.  We leave you with the view from the back of the boat shortly after sunrise at 8:30 this Christmas morning.  May all your days be Merry and Bright!20151225 2247 petersburg christmas morning r

One More Minute

…of daylight today.  The Winter Solstice was two days ago, so the days are getting longer once again!  Today we’ll have one more minute of daylight than we had yesterday – which doesn’t seem like much, but the pace will pick up, adding 5-6 minutes a day of daylight by springtime.  That’s enough to be very noticeable over a week’s time.

Today the sun rose around 8:29, and it will set at 3:14 this afternoon.  20141217 3956 petersburg christmas tree rPeople tend to keep their Christmas lights up well into January – it helps to keep the “dark months” a little brighter.

Jim and I want to wish you and your families a Joyous Holiday Season, and we send warm wishes from Petersburg, Alaska!

While we’ve been busy traveling, then catching up from being away, and now dealing with the hustle and bustle of Christmas in “Little Norway” (more Julebukking today – where everyone eats their way around town), I haven’t forgotten about this Blog.  I’m still digging out from under all the photos I shot on our fall trip to the Alaskan Interior, as well as the later fall trip back east.  I promise to get the Blog caught up in the next week or two – so don’t be too confused by reading about September things in December (and January).