Fall Trip Back to Glacier Bay

We enjoyed our brief stay back in Petersburg, but we really wanted to go cruising one more time before the weather changes for the fall and winter.  Glacier Bay National Park remains our favorite place in SE Alaska so that’s where we decided to go, but not before we took care of a few maintenance items.  The last time we pulled the anchor, the salt water washdown wasn’t working very well, and it’s important to keep the chain clean when it goes back into the locker so the bilge doesn’t develop an odor.  Jim crawled into the forward bilge and discovered that the old pump was badly corroded… fortunately we had a spare.20140909 3514 corroded salt water washdown pump rIt takes a few days to get up to Glacier Bay, so we stopped in a new anchorage the first night and we liked it enough that we stayed an extra day just to kayak around and explore the protected cove.20140912 3012 chapin bay eagle 2 rOur next stop was back to Baranof Warm Springs, with the geothermal hot spring piped into a little bath house with a great view of the waterfall.  There’s a free state dock we can tie to, and what’s not to like about a relaxing soak with a view??20140913 2870 baranof hot springs tub view rHeading up to Glacier Bay we got a beautiful view of the Fairweather mountain range that sits along the coast of the Gulf of Alaska.20140916 3060 icy strait fairweather range rWe didn’t expect to see whales since they migrate to Hawaii for the winter, but we got a happy surprise and saw several of them along the way.  Talking with the rangers at Glacier Bay National Park we learned that there are a number of younger males that  to stay up in Alaska for the winter.

We had Glacier Bay almost entirely to ourselves in mid-September, and it was very quiet.  We met with the volunteer coordinator about volunteering in the Park next summer, and we got to talk with more of the rangers and one of the Park’s law enforcement officers – such interesting people with endless stories to tell!  Caring for a Park that’s the size of Connecticut is no simple matter.20140923 3166 gbnp snow capped mtns 1 rWe headed up into the Park and settled into a good anchorage to ride out some ugly storm fronts that were on the way.  We saw some extremely low low-pressure systems – 980 millibars looked strange on the barometer – that’s a hurricane-caliber low.  Apparently these fall weather fronts coming off the Gulf of Alaska are normally very low.  We found a comfortable spot to sit through the first front, capped by a double rainbow, and we explored the farther reaches of Muir Inlet when the weather settled down.20140919 3333 gbnp n sandy perfect rainbow double r20140923 3433 gbnp jim bow hopkins inlet rWe returned to the protected anchorage to hide from another front, and then explored up the western arm of the bay.  We were looking forward to getting close to the Johns Hopkins glacier, but the brash ice was very thick and we couldn’t find a safe path.20140923 3493 gbnp brash ice rHeading back down the bay, we stopped at a cliff called “gloomy knob” and we spotted some mountain goats along the rocks.  We were able to get close to the cliff and had a great view of the surefooted goats picking their way up and down the steep rock face.20140923 3250 gbnp mtn goat descending rStay tuned for more adventures from our fall trip to Glacier Bay…

Adventures Near Petersburg

After cruising over 2700 nautical miles around SE Alaska and taking a side trip up to the interior to see Denali, we finally got the chance to spend a little time in the town of Petersburg (aka “Little Norway”) where we’ll settle for the winter months.  We’ve been looking forward to exploring more of our new “back yard” and meeting people, and we were lucky to be in town for the Rainforest Festival.  A marine mammal expert from Kodiak was on hand to give a talk about Steller sea lions – appropriate since we have a healthy population in the area, and a few that always hang around in the harbor.20140907 2788 petersburg buoy sea lions rStellers are much larger than their cousins, the California sea lions, and the Steller males can weigh up to 2000 lbs.  Kate, a professor from the University of Alaska, gave an excellent talk about these animals, and relayed a number of great stories.  Suffice it to say that neither one of us is inclined to go diving in the harbor since the sea lions love to harass divers.

In addition to the lecture, the Festival organized a boat trip to see the Le Conte glacier – Petersburg’s “local” glacier and one of the reasons the town was originally founded here.  In the late 1800s it was very difficult to keep fish fresh to get it to market down in Seattle, but the ready supply of glacier ice solved the problem nicely and the town flourished.

The boat tour included commentary by Professor Kate so it was a rare treat to learn more about the marine mammals near the glacier – particularly the seals.20140907 2831 le conte seal on ice rThe Le Conte is a difficult glacier to see since the approach has a lot of twists and turns, and it’s often choked with brash ice and bergy bits.  There is no way we could have gotten ADVENTURES in close to see the Le Conte, but the nimble jet-drive aluminum tour boat was perfect for the job.  Of course the day of the tour was foggy and it was raining hard, but since the tourist season was over and the participants were all locals, no one thought anything about the weather.  We all just dressed in our rain gear and boots, and I brought “rain coats” for my cameras.  20140907 2810 le conte seal on ice r20140907 2834 le conte seal gang on ice 4 rThere were lots of seals around the glacier and we enjoyed learning more about them.  They prefer the ice over any other terrain to haul out on, and they even give birth to their pups on the ice.  Here you can see the Le Conte glacier, and if you look closely you’ll see lots of little brown seals in front of the snout.20140907 2809 le conte glacier wide rThe ice is so magical – it can have so many different colors, and I love the almost fake-looking turquoise blue that’s common in glacier ice.  Some ice is perfectly clear, some is white, and some is black from the grit and rock ground from the mountains as the glacier makes its way down to the sea.  The shapes and sizes boggle the mind, and I don’t get tired of looking at all the different formations.  You just have to be careful about getting too close to the bergy bits since pieces sometimes calve off, changing the center of balance and causing the ice to roll over or pop up.20140907 2862 le conte turquoise ice rAs we headed back towards Petersburg the clouds got darker and some of the big bergy bits really stood out against the gray sky.  Who says a rainy day can’t be a beautiful thing?OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Happy Alaska Day!

147 years ago the U.S. purchased Alaska from Russia for the price of $7.2 million dollars, and the formal transfer took place at Fort Sitka on this day.  Happy Alaska Day!  It only took 92 years after that for Alaska to become the 49th state, proving that glaciers aren’t the only things that move very slowly.

The last post talked about our terrific too-short two days in Denali National Park, and this post will wrap up the last bit of our week long side trip to see different parts of Alaska.20140901 2758 alaska rr fall color and river rIt was strange to see so much fall color in the first few days of September, but fall is a very short season in the interior.  “So much fall color” is relative since the majority of the trees are evergreens rather than deciduous.

We took the Alaska Railroad from Denali back down to Anchorage in a “dome car” with panoramic views from every seat.  The train runs at a slower speed – the whole point is to enjoy the ride, and it’s fantastic that the train stops for wildlife sightings.  We spotted a moose cow and calf in a field, and the train not only stopped but it actually backed up to give all the cars a better view.20140901 2754 alaska rr along the tracks rWe loved the Alaska Railroad, but we discovered that some trains have dome cars provided by the Alaska RR, and some trains have cars provided by the cruise lines.  We definitely prefer the Alaska RR cars – the commentary was excellent and informative; the cruise ship version was more “rah rah”, pushing fancy drinks from the bar and mindless “entertainment” more than actual information.  We’ll be more careful when making arrangements in the future.

We took an extra day to explore Anchorage – Alaska’s largest city in terms of population – about 300,000.  We wanted to learn more about the infamous 1964 Good Friday earthquake, the second most powerful earthquake ever recorded at 9.2 on the Richter Scale.  The devastation in the city was tremendous, though there was also significant damage and impact for 200 miles around.  In areas to the south the ground fell, while an area near Kodiak Island was permanently raised about 30′, and the port of Valdez was destroyed by an underwater landslide.  Tsunamis from this quake impacted Hawaii and Japan, as well as local towns.  It’s a reminder that Alaska is a geologically active place, and although we haven’t actually felt any earthquakes this summer we did experience one when we were in Haines.  The people in town felt the overnight rumbling, but since we float we didn’t notice until the next morning when our cell phones stopped working.  The quake was centered about 100 miles to the west, and it severed a fiber optic communications cable that serves the northern part of Juneau, Haines and Skagway.  It’s a good thing we’re immune to tsunamis down here in Petersburg!

20140902 2770 anchorage museum rWe heard good things about the Anchorage Museum so we set aside some hours to explore it.  The museum was currently hosting an exhibit called “Gyre” about the horrific problem of plastic trash in our oceans.  It was a very compelling exhibit, telling the heartbreaking story of humanity’s carelessness and callousness in very innovative and even beautiful ways.20140902 2781 anchorage museum ocean trash horn rWe wallowed in native culture, amazed at the variety of creations from all the different tribes, particularly those in the northern and interior regions.  In British Columbia and SE Alaska we only see things from the Tlingit, Haida, and Tsimshian tribes so we appreciated their extensive collection.  The museum also had an exhibit of Art of the North in a variety of media – most excellent.  My favorite was a small set of photographs about the Kobuk Valley National Park – an arctic desert 25 miles north of the Arctic Circle.  I love that kind of stark, dramatic landscape and now I have to figure out how to visit such an inaccessible place!

We discovered the Imaginarium on the lower level, unfortunately a little too close to closing time, but we still managed to find some neat science-y things to play with.  You’re never too old to have a happy childhood.20140902 2782 anchorage museum hands on jim r

To wrap it all up, we got a kick out of the funky statues just outside of the museum – art meets local wildlife.

20140902 2774 anchorage museum funky statues 2 r20140902 2776 anchorage museum funky statues 1 r

Denali National Park – Part 2

Our first day exploring Denali National Park involved a 5am wake up and 184 miles on a dirt-gravel road in a school bus – it was outstanding and we just loved it!  In fact, the only problem was some extreme frustration because there were so many places we wanted to stop and savor the landscape or to get a better view of some wildlife along the way.  We didn’t get back to our hotel until about 8pm so we put the camera batteries on chargers, grabbed a quick bite of dinner, and fell into bed so we could do it all over again.

Our second day in Denali was a bit less structured – we decided to take one of the park buses up to Mile 66 – to the Eielson Visitor Center so we could spend some time hiking.  We still had to get up at 5am in order to catch a park bus that would get us to Eielson early enough to have plenty of time for hiking, and we arranged for box lunches from our hotel since there isn’t anything available inside the park.

An interesting feature of Denali is that there aren’t that many actual hiking trails – rather the park is just open wilderness and you can hike anywhere.  Along the first few miles of the park road there were temporary signs closing that area to hiking because it was moose mating season.  Moose are grumpy and dangerous enough on a good day; I hate to think of how much worse they can be when they’re rutting.  But the good news is that we saw a number of moose…20140831 2411 denali np bull moose 2 r…and one was very close to the edge of the road.  (I wonder how thick the steel is on a school bus?)20140831 2447 denali np moose face 2 rWe were most excited about the moose, caribou and Dall sheep since they aren’t things we see down in SE Alaska very often.  We saw a number of brown bears, though they are called “grizzlies” in the interior and they are smaller than the coastal brown bears that we’re used to because they don’t have all that salmon in their diet.20140830 2544 denali np brown bear and cubs vertical r20140831 2356 denali np dall sheep ram rWe saw a number of Dall sheep up on the mountainsides, though they were usually too far away for good photographs.  This ram came down a bit lower so we could get a better view.  Sometimes it’s hard to decide whether to just look at them with powerful binoculars or try to get a photograph, hand-holding a long lens.  Regardless, any wildlife sighting is a thrill.


We had a number of caribou sightings, and they are impressive with their huge antlers.  One caribou even ran across the road in front of our bus!20140830 2609 denali np caribou looking 3 rMy favorite was this one, though, silhouetted against the late afternoon sky.  He’s a beauty!20140831 2352 denali np caribou silhouette rWe finally got to the Eielson Visitor Center and began to appreciate the views we had the day before.  Our second day was overcast which made the chilly temps feel much colder, and we never saw the mountain (THE mountain) all day.  We decided to hike up the Alpine Trail behind the center, through the high tundra.  It wasn’t a very long hike but it was very steep, climbing over 1000′ feet on a mile-long trail.  20140831 2692 denali np eilson from alpine trail rWe stopped often to catch our breath, but we were lucky enough to hear and then see some little pika – 6″ long mouse-like animals that live in the rocky high country.  They don’t hibernate, so they were very busy gathering food to get them through the long winter.

The tundra seems plain and barren, but there was a lot of subtle fall color in the various plants and the lichens growing on the rocks.  The views along the trail were grand sweeping landscapes, though they would have been even better if we could have seen the mountain from up there.20140831 2708 denali np eilson alpine near summit r20140831 2725 denali alpine jim rAs we got higher up the mountain the wind really made us feel the cold, and we were glad we brought some layers of clothing, warm hats, and gloves.  It was very strange to be standing on snow on August 31st, but that’s Denali.  As of today, the park road is completely closed due to snow, only accessible by dog sled until spring.